Okay.  Now that we have a fair idea about the condition of the bike, it’s time to get one step closer to starting her up!  Before we get to turn the motor over, it’s a good idea to change all the oils to be sure only good stuff flows through the motor.

First step is to drain the motor oil and drop the oil plan

Easy enough to pull the oil drain plug.  The oil that flowed was quite dark in color, hinting that it was not changed prior to storage, but I can’t be sure of that

Next is removal of the oil filter cover (3 x 10mm bolts holding this puppy on)

Then removing the filter.  There was some obvious grit on the outer parts of the filter, indicating that it wasn’t changed prior to storing the bike 20 years ago.

Next the oil pan bolts come off.  I was pleased to see that every bolt was of the same length, each one had a washer and none of them were stripped.  It kind of looks like nobody has been here so far.

With a bit of encouragement from a rubber mallet, the oil pan came off without much protest.  The oil within was a bit sludgy and I found 2 small, non-magnetic nuggets of metal within. They were not big, probably part of the engine casing from somewhere.  They certainly did not appear to be part of a bearing or other critical item.  I’m happy with just ignoring this, but will put in in the “knowledge bank” for later use…

Once the pan was cleaned up, the remnants of the gasket were removed using a brass brush

 

then a new gasket was put on, sealed with a small amount of hylomar Blue.  The oil plan was bolted back on in sequence starting from the middle outwards at low torque values, somewhere around finger-tight plus one turn.  The aluminium casing that these bolts go in is prone to stripping.

Next the transmission oil was drained, which was quite clear-looking and the magnetic plug only had some very fine “fuzz” on it, not gritty at all.  This looks good.  No signs of water contamination from condensation.

Next the driveshaft oil drain plug was removed and …  no oil came out.  Dry as a bone.  Either it had all migrated to the final drive due to a bad seal, or it had not been filled.  A further clue came to light when I tried to remove the filler plug and the bolt was stripped. Just turns and turns but doesn’t back out.  Maybe the driveshaft oil was drained and the PO was unable to fill it so left it dry.

Next the final drive oil was drained, 300 cc came out.

Time to fill the driveshaft oil.  First step is to measure about the appropriate amount (maybe a little more to account for the leftovers in the containers.  Notice I didn’t write 150 cc’s of gear oil.  That’s why you have a manual right ?  some airheads take 100 cc’s in the driveshaft, some use 150

… then put the oil in a squeeze bottle…

Then connect the bottle to some tubing that goes through the shaft boot to the driveshaft space.  Sort of a workaround for that driveshaft filler plug that I am unable to remove.  I sense that the final drive will need to come apart at a later date to replace some seals, so the plan will be to repair those treads once the final drive unit is off the bike.  It’s the only way I will be able to take that filler plug off.

Here’s a pic of the filling of the driveshaft oil through tubing that’s going to the driveshaft via the boot.  Pretty simple and easy to measure out “the appropriate amount” of gear oil here.  .

Finally the Final drive was refilled (just to the bottom of the treads of the filler bolt) and the transmission was filled, again to the level of the treads of the filler bolt.  New crush washer all around of course.

4. Retorque cylinder head bolts and adjust the valves

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